THREAD TO ART: THE ESSENTIAL PUNCH NEEDLE GUIDE - By Kelly Kanyok- Artist & Founder of Orphaned Wool
Welcome to Orphaned Wool’s - The Essential Punch Needle Guide!
This is the first in a series of informational blog posts created to teach and inspire artists to explore the world of punch needle embroidery.
In this introductory issue, I’ll cover the basics, from understanding how the punch needle works to the vital tools and materials needed to start your creative journey. I’ll also clarify the differences between punch needle embroidery and rug punch needle, a common source of confusion for many beginners. While both art forms are intriguing, the main focus of this series will primarily be on punch needle embroidery.
Topics covered in this issue:
How the Punch Needle WorksHow Loops Are Created and Stay Secure in the Fabric
Thread vs. Yarn Punch Needle Tools: What’s the Difference?
Equipment and Materials: Hoops vs. Gripper Frames
Foundation Fabrics for Different Types of Punch Needle
A Guide to Different Punch Needle Embroidery Threads
PUNCH NEEDLE “EMBROIDERY” - THE BASICS
THE PUNCH NEEDLE PROCESS:
When I refer to the term “embroidery,” I am referencing the type of Punch Needle artwork that uses thread, not yarn. I will delve into the differences in detail later in this guide.
Once you understand how the Punch Needle Embroidery process works and its simplicity, you will be pleasantly surprised by how easy it is to create beautiful Punch Needle designs. It is a loop-making process that uses a finely woven foundation fabric and thread to make tiny loops held tightly in place by the fabric's weave and the density created by multiple loops. The key to success is using quality tools, materials, and the correct foundation fabric.
How does a Punch Needle work?
The Punch Needle creates a continuous series of small loops, punched one at a time, on the opposite side of the fabric from which you are working. The loops make the design on the front side of the fabric, which will be the finished design. The pattern is printed or hand-drawn on the backside or working side of the fabric. To view the pattern's front or finished side, you need to flip over the pattern.
How are the loops created?
The thread loops are created by punching the needle into the fabric until it stops. Then, pull the needle out just enough that the needle tip can advance to punch the next loop. It's a continuous rhythm of “ Push- Pull- Move Forward” repeatedly. The loops are punched close together, but not on top of one another or so close together that they bunch up; this spacing technique is critical to your design outcome and the method that takes the most time to learn.
The spacing of the loops is crucial to achieving a beautiful finished design. But, spacing can be adjusted in a design to create different effects as needed; for example, if you are filling in a background area, you can space the loops “normally” as described above, but if you want to create one single line for an outline in a design, it is best to punch this series of loops closer and tighter together than “normal” so there are more loops created. This will help create a more visible line on the front side of the pattern.
How do the loops stay in the fabric?
The Punch Needle does not necessarily make a hole in the foundation fabric; the fine needle tip separates the weave in the cloth, allowing it to close around the thread loop and hold it in place. Adding the loops makes the fabric more dense, so the loops are held tightly in the fabric weave.
PUNCH NEEDLE - THREAD VS YARN
THREAD VS. YARN PUNCH NEEDLES - UNDERSTANDING THE DIFFERENCE
Many beginners need clarification in this area. What’s the difference between a Punch Needle that uses thread, also referred to as "Punch Needle Embroidery,” and a Punch Needle that uses different types of yarns or wool strips, also referred to as "Rug Punching or Rug Punch Needle"? Both are called a punch needle, and they do virtually the same thing: creating loops; both are worked from the backside, punching loops to the front, and each tool can work in varying fiber thicknesses. So what's the difference?
The "Embroidery" Punch Needle can be used with many different thread types and various thread thicknesses, from DMC Floss 6-strand to DMC Eco-Vita 100% Wool threads, Valdani Thread- sizes 5, 8, 12, balls and 3ply, skeins, along with many other thread companies.
In this guide, I will refer to the Punch Needle that I use for my designs, which is a top-rated, high-quality tool, and that is the Ultra Punch Needle. This Ultra Punch Needle Set includes three needle tips of different sizes for using different thread thicknesses, two threaders, and an instructional booklet. The loop length can be adjusted on the actual needle handle. This type of Punch Needle uses a finely woven foundation fabric. The best and most popular foundation fabric is Weaver’s Cloth, a 55 % polyester and 45% cotton blend. The polyester blend is essential because it allows the fabric to stretch open and close around the delicate thread loops and hold them in place.
The Rug Punch Needle or "Oxford Punch Needle" uses different types of yarn, but other fibers, such as wool strips, can also be used with these tools. Depending on the thickness of your yarn or wool strips and your desired loop lengths, you will need a specific punch needle tool for each thickness and loop length. The needle is not removable from the handle; it is all one tool. This tool is known as a “Rug” or “Oxford" Punch Needle and uses completely different types of foundation fabrics than Punch Needle “Embroidery."
The weave of the foundation fabrics used is much wider than the Punch Needle Embroidery uses and much heavier fabric. This wider weave allows for a much thicker needle and fiber. The foundation fabrics used with this tool are a Monks cloth, natural linen, rug warp, and sometimes burlap; all are also used for Rug Hooking. For more information on the Oxford Punch Needle sets, see The Oxford Company online at amyoxford.com
PUNCH NEEDLE - EQUIPMENT & MATERIALS
PUNCH NEEDLES (Embroidery )- TYPES OF PUNCH NEEDLES
Several types of Thread Punch Needles are available; some resemble a more traditional type of Punch Needle Where the needle needs to be changed for different loop lengths, as it is much smaller and heavier. The latest Punch Needle is advertised as more ergonomic, with a more oversized handle and a thumb indentation on the front of the needle, and there are many others available on the market. I highly recommend purchasing your punch needle from a reputable website specializing in this type of artwork. The proper tools and materials make the difference between becoming frustrated and disappointed with the process or finding this art form a relaxing and fulfilling journey you genuinely love.
THE ULTRA PUNCH NEEDLE SET- Shown in the first photograph
I use and recommend the Ultra Punch Needle Set, my trusted companion. It's not just any needle; it's my favorite needle, and its reliability has been proven over time. I've used it in countless projects, and it has always succeeded in delivering the desired results. This is why Orphaned Wool sells them, but they are also readily available online. It is a high-quality tool that has stood the test of time. This one tool can adjust to 12 different length settings and comes with three different needle sizes for various thicknesses of threads, along with two threaders and directions for use. Remember that the quality of the tools and equipment will reflect the results and your enjoyment in the creative process.
ULTRA PUNCH NEEDLE- THREE NEEDLE SET (SIZES)
Other Punch Needle Embroidery tools available include The Smart Punch Needle, an ergonomically designed tool with a more oversized handle, and a newer punch needle on the market that has been out for a few years but seems well-liked. Igolochkoy- This original punch needle tool has a much smaller and heavier handle and uses different needles for different length settings. Feel free to research these tools and others to find what best suits you.
EMBROIDERY HOOPS VS. GRIPPER FRAMES
In my punch needle classes, I have seen the frustration of keeping the foundation fabric (Weaver’s Cloth) “Drum Tight.” This is one of the basic fundamental techniques overlooked and one of the reasons for dissatisfaction with a design's outcome with uneven loops. The weaver’s cloth fabric must be consistently held “drum tight” throughout punching. In my classes, I always bring extra gripper frames for students to use and see the difference between a hoop and a gripper frame. Typically, they are astonished at the difference and how much more enjoyable and easier it is to work on than using and holding a hoop.
My strong recommendation is to invest in a simple punch needle gripper frame to start with if you don’t want to invest a lot, and then, if you want to go for it, research more elaborate punch needle or rug hooking gripper frames that rotate or can be flipped to see the finished side. There are many different frames to choose from online. I started my punch needle journey first as a rug hooker, so I just used the rug hooking gripper frames that I had available. For all you beginners who are a little reluctant to purchase a gripper frame vs a hoop, I understand, but I would say this: gripper frames can be easily resold online or on Facebook and tend to sell quickly. But if you are still unsure, then start with a hoop, and if it is something that you feel you would want to continue, please invest in a gripper frame because it will make a big difference in your enjoyment and the design outcome.
Left side Frame: By Needleworks - An Octagonal gripper frame that spins and will flip up to see the front side of your work.
Right side: This is a smaller gripper frame that is foldable and great for travel. Although this company no longer makes this frame, I purchased it through TheWoolery.com, which also carries a similar portable gripper frame.
Left side: Hand-held simple gripper frame 12 x 12 with a 10x10 interior working area.
Right Side: By: Old Tattered Flag- Spinner Punch Needle frame.
PUNCH NEEDLE EMBROIDERY - THE BEST FOUNDATION FABRIC
The best and most popular foundation fabric for creating Thread Punch Needle Artwork is called Weaver’s Cloth. A high-quality Weaver’s Cloth fabric comprises a 55% polyester and 45% cotton blend. This fabric typically comes in white or cream colors. The blend in this fabric is critical because, as I mentioned earlier, you don’t want to break the fabric weave; you want to insert the needle easily into the fabric to open the weaver up to make your loop.
Also, be mindful that not all Weaver’s cloth fabrics advertised are a 55% polyester and 45% cotton blend; be sure to order the proper blend or order from a reputable punch needle site. The manufacturer of my Weaver’s Cloth fabric is called Springs Creative, and they mill these fabrics typically in Pakistan, sometimes in China. Weaver’s Cloth Fabric can be dyed. This can be an option if you have a design that you do not want to punch the background area.
WEAVER'S CLOTH FABRIC
PATTERN SIZE- HOW & WHY THE FINISHED SIZE CHANGES.
The size of your design will grow slightly as you add loops into the fabric and the stretch of the polyester in the fabric. The pattern will increase more in one direction than the other due to the weft and warp of the fabric weave. So, if a pattern starts as a 6 x 6, it will not be 6 x 6 when completed; my recent piece size grew to 6 1/4 x 6 1/2 when finished. So be mindful when or if you are framing a design that, typically, the size will change and won't be precisely the same growth in both directions.
OTHER FABRICS THAT CAN BE USED IN PUNCH NEEDLE EMBROIDERY.
Other fabrics can be used, like denim, linen, muslin, flannel, and wool, but most of them are things people choose to adorn with a punch needle design, such as clothing or tablecloths. You can also punch through another fabric layer to use as the background on a design, for example, using a piece of wool fabric as the background. This process is best done using a hoop to hold together the weaver’s cloth fabric pattern and the wool fabric. I have used this process for my pattern “You, Me and The Sea” if you want to see how this looks in a finished design.
"RUG" PUNCH NEEDLE - FOUNDATION FABRICS
What fabrics are used for Rug Punch Needle with yarn? The picture below will show different types of foundation fabrics that can be used in Rug Punch Needle. As you can see, compared to the finely woven Weaver's Cloth used in Punch Needle Embroidery, the weave and weight of these fabrics are very different. Thus, there si a need for the correct foundation fabric to be successful with either type of Punch Needle.
Left to Right-TOP: Natural Linen, Rug Warp.
Left to Right-BOTTOM: Monks Cloth (most popular), and Burlap.
PUNCH NEEDLE EMBROIDERY - THREADS
ABOUT MY FAVORITES
There are many different threads to choose from in your Punch Needle art. Here, I will cover some of the favorites I have used in my designs and what I have found to be worth mentioning. I have worked with the following thread types in my designs.
DMC Floss/Skeins are manufactured in France and can be easily purchased locally. For my designs, I divide the six strands into three, creating finer details, a beautiful sheen to the thread, and a cost-effective thread. Note: When separating these threads, I use my Quick Split Clip to divide the 6-stand skein into 3 or 4 strands easily; see orphanedwool.com under supplies for this item.
DMC Eco-Vita 100% Wool / Skeins is a naturally dyed 100% wool thread manufactured in Italy. It is used as a single strand, and because it is wool, it fills in nicely with the fluff of the natural fiber. I love the matte finish created with this thread; it is like creating miniature tapestries. It was released in 2024 and can be found online at 123stitch.com and other sites. It is more expensive than floss but uses less to fill the design.
Valdani Threads are manufactured in Romania and distributed through their Canadian Headquarters. They are available in various types, from skeins to several-size rolls of Perle Cotton (5, 8, and 12), along with a 3-strand roll, a smaller roll with less yardage than the large Perle cotton rolls. I enjoy using the Valdani size 12 and the 3-strand roll in my designs. They are lovely to use, and using the rolls requires no separation and comes in a continuous roll, cutting down on the re-threading time. They can be found online but not as easily found locally. It is more expensive than DMC Floss, but using the rolls takes less time to complete a design.
Rustic Moire Wool Threads are 100% wool and manufactured in Spain. They come on a wooden spool and are continuous threads that require no separation. Due to being a wool thread, they are slightly coarse. They will also create a beautiful matte finish for your punch needle designs. They are mostly sold online and can be challenging to find locally.
While many other thread companies and types can be used in punch needle art. Your personal preference, accessibility, cost, and, of course, the pattern design will determine the threads you choose. It is fun to experiment with different thread types and textures and try various colors from variegated vs. solid-colored threads, which can create completely different but equally beautiful effects in your design.
DMC FLOSS- 6-STRAND SKEINS
DMC ECO-VITA 100% WOOL THREADS
VALDANI THREADS- Perle Cotton size-12 balls
RUSTIC MOIRE WOOL -THREAD SPOOLS
"I hope this introduction to The Essential Punch Needle Guide - The Basics has answered some of your questions and sparked your curiosity to explore the creative possibilities of punch needle embroidery. Stay tuned for more blog posts, where I will delve into punching techniques, share expert tips, and offer inspiring project ideas to help you elevate your crafting journey!”
The Essential Punch Needle Guide- Copyright ©️ 2024 Kelly Kanyok / Orphaned Wool. All Rights Reserved